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the legend of STEGA

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treasure map

I entered a competition not too long ago, it was to create an “art to wear” type design for Barbie through the Toronto Fashion Incubator. The prize was a cool 10 mill. I mean 10 grand. Serious stuff.

I was like, aha! STEGA. This is my chance.

I had a whim a while ago for a simple top with Stegosaurus like sleeves, basically spikes going down the arms. So I designed an outfit for Barbie on this premise- called her “Sunstar” Barbie. It was my opportunity to create my Stega masterpiece, and with purpose to boot. The inspiration [I had to make up] was something along the lines of “Barbie gets a hard time, a lot of the time. From Moms. From Feminists. From Feminist Moms. You know, everybody loves to hate Barbie, give her flack about her unachievable proportions, her being a bad role model for little girls. She is often acquiring another career to appease her critics, to make her more of an independent woman who is in charge of her own destiny.” Something like that, we all know this to be true. So my gal, Sunstar Barbie, is the antithesis to the criticism. She’s all about being the unapologetic center of attention, the centre of the universe, actually. She’s rockin in the free world, strutting her stuff, a happy, fun, shiny star.

I am not a magnificent artiste, so I sent this representation of the design to my friend fashion illustrator/blogger extraordinaire Danielle Meder, to turn into a masterpiece for my entry.

And here is what Danielle put together- amazing! I would totally buy this Barbie for my daughters. I didn’t want my design to have anything to do with sexiness, or even beauty (in the Barbie sense). I guess. But this Barbie is a dynamic, individual of a woman that I want to know more about. Total manrepeller.

And then, I didn’t get into the finals, unfortunately. They were picking 25 finalists for an ultimate showdown on the runway. I was mucho disappointed for an afternoon, but I got over it pretty quickly. I realized that most of my disappointment stemmed from the fact that I really wanted to make the design. So I was like, that’s cool, I’ll just make it. Although I of course thought of a million reasons why I didn’t get in- Too obvious? Not complicated enough? Did I insult them with my Sunstar Barbie explanation (which I guess is really, Inyoface Barbie) Do they hate me? And so on.

While I was waiting to hear if I got in or not, I had a flash of insight into the pattern I was going to draft to make it. And it was going to have . . . . NO SEAMS, or no overarm seams anyhow.  This is exactly the kind of thing that I get really excited about, I love a one piece pattern.
Here we go on a lengthy tutorial- but first-  here is the final product (more pics at the end too) I have to say, I kind of love it. I made it out of a really heavy t shirt knit, the stiff and stretchless kind. I guess you could call it a beefy tee knit. I feel like ranting a little about how sick I am of flimsy knits. It’s so fast fashion. This shirt will probably *gasp* get better with wear and age. It’s like the leather of knit cotton. And I could do some amazing stuff with this fabric, pattern wise, because although it is a knit- it has a backbone.
STEGA!!!
Stega: How I Made It With Only One Piece Of Fabric
I opted to just draw the pattern right on the fabric. Rather than work with a 2 metre square piece of pattern paper (brutal!). I used a dolman pattern I had as a place to start from. The top edge of the fabric is a fold.

patterning

One half drawn, and ready to be folded and cut.

one half drawn

Cut and laid out, with two alternate necklines. The top can be worn with the V in the back or front.

laid out

 

I opted to fuse the overarm area where the spikes will be, to give it more substance and stability. Here it is fused and marked for sewing.

sewing lines marked

And here are the lines sewn. Notice the U shape.

sewn

So next, I carefully slit into the tiny space between the two sewing lines and made a tiny Y shape into the corners at their interior. Which gave me this. I have already added a wide wrist facing here as well.

getting closer...

But, the boxes were actually too tall! DOH! So I had to put a seam in their upper edge after all, this would be eliminated  second time around though. Oops. So here is what they looked like after that-

pre-flip

So I’ve already sewn the shirts seams that hold the back to the front and it’s time to flip. I flipped it right side out and ever so carefully work the squares out without puncturing the ever so tiny seam allowances between them. Then, I took the corners of each square and pushed them back in towards the center, creating a triangle. Voila! That’s it. I tacked the two corners together on one but found it was actually kind of unecessary so I didn’t go any further with that operation.

getting a nice press

The really exciting thing is that I think this pattern making principal could be applied anywhere on a garment. It could be an interesting way to control fullness and add shaping, by grabbing sections of fabric here and there, and then doing this to it. The spikes could be tiny, or huge. . . there are so many possibilities to play around with the idea.

 

Here are a few more pictures of my new top! Love it! If anyone else wants one, I’ve got it listed on Etsy (just for the hell of it.)


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